If you're buying a home in Oregon, you're in one of the better-regulated states in the country when it comes to home inspections — but that doesn't mean every inspector is the right fit for your purchase. Oregon requires real credentials behind the title, which gives buyers a genuine baseline to check. The trick is knowing what that baseline actually is, and what questions separate a solid inspector from a great one. Here's how to vet an inspector the way an experienced Oregon buyer would. Start With What Oregon Actually Requires Oregon regulates home inspectors through the Construction Contractors Board (CCB), and the bar is higher here than in many states. To legally inspect two or more components of a home for compensation, an inspector must: Hold Oregon Certified Home Inspector (OCHI) certification Have passed the National Home Inspector Examination Be an owner or employee of a business separately licensed with the CCB, which carries its own bonding (typically $10,000–$20,000) and liability insurance requirements (commonly $100,000–$500,000) Complete 30 hours of continuing education every two years to stay certified This means every legally operating inspector in Oregon has already cleared a real bar. Your job isn't to find out whether they're certified — it's to find out how good they actually are beyond the minimum. Questions to Ask Before You Hire 1. "Can you confirm your OCHI certification number?" This is Oregon's version of "are you licensed," and it's easy to verify. The Oregon CCB maintains a public license lookup, so you can check that an inspector's certification is active and that their associated business license is in good standing — in about two minutes, before you even get on the phone. 2. "How many inspections have you done, particularly in this area?" Oregon's housing stock varies enormously by region — 1920s bungalows in inner Portland, slab-on-grade homes in Bend, coastal properties dealing with salt air and wind exposure, rural properties on wells and septic systems. An inspector with deep experience in your specific area and home type will catch things a generalist might miss. 3. "How much experience do you have with crawl spaces and moisture issues?" This one matters more in Oregon than almost anywhere else. A huge share of homes here — especially older ones — sit on crawl spaces, and our long rainy season makes moisture intrusion one of the single most common (and most consequential) findings in the state. Ask directly how comfortable and experienced your inspector is evaluating vapor barriers, drainage, and signs of chronic dampness, not just spotting an obvious puddle. 4. "Do you offer radon testing, or work with someone who does?" Parts of the Willamette Valley and Portland metro fall into moderate-to-high radon zones, and radon is invisible without testing. Not every standard inspection includes it by default — confirm whether it's built in, offered as an add-on, or something you'll need to arrange separately. 5. "What about sewer scope inspections?" Oregon has a lot of homes with aging clay or cast-iron sewer laterals, particularly in older Portland-area neighborhoods, and problems here are invisible until they're a very expensive emergency. Sewer scope is typically a separate service from a standard inspection — ask whether your inspector offers it directly or has a trusted referral. 6. "Can I see a sample report?" This works the same in Oregon as anywhere: a sample report tells you whether findings are organized clearly, prioritized by severity, and supported by photos — or just dumped into a long, undifferentiated list. Ask before you book, not after. 7. "Can I attend the inspection?" The answer should be yes, without hesitation. Given how much of an Oregon inspection focuses on things like crawl space access and attic ventilation, being present — or at least getting a live walkthrough of major findings — is one of the most useful things you can do as a buyer here. 8. "Do you carry E&O insurance separate from your CCB bonding?" The CCB bonding requirement protects consumers in certain situations, but Errors & Omissions insurance is a separate layer that covers professional judgment calls. It's a fair and normal question to ask directly. 9. "How soon will I get my report, and are you available for follow-up questions?" Standard turnaround is typically 24 to 48 hours. Given Oregon's typical inspection contingency windows, ask this upfront so you're not scrambling to negotiate on a tight deadline. Red Flags to Watch For in Oregon Can't provide their OCHI certification number, or it doesn't check out on the CCB's public lookup Vague or dismissive when asked about crawl space or moisture experience No familiarity with regional issues like radon zones or aging sewer infrastructure in older neighborhoods Discourages you from attending the inspection Pressures you to skip add-ons like radon or sewer scope without a clear explanation of the trade-offs The Bottom Line Oregon's licensing framework means you're not starting from zero when vetting an inspector — every legitimately operating inspector has cleared a real set of requirements. But "certified" and "the right fit for your purchase" aren't the same thing. The inspectors who stand out are the ones with real, specific experience in the moisture, crawl space, and regional issues that define homes in this part of the country — and a handful of direct questions will tell you which kind of inspector you're talking to before you ever book the appointment. Curious about our OCHI certification, our experience with crawl spaces and moisture issues, or what's included in an inspection? Oregon NW Home Inspections is happy to answer every question on this list before you book.

Buying a home is one of the biggest decisions you'll ever make — and the home inspection is often the moment reality meets the listing photos. For many buyers, especially first-timers, the inspection can feel like a mystery: a stranger walks through your soon-to-be home for two or three hours, disappears into the attic and crawl space, and hands you a report that's sometimes 40 pages long. Here's exactly what happens, from the moment your inspector arrives to the moment you get your report — so you can walk in knowing what to expect. Before the Inspection: Scheduling and Prep Once your offer is accepted, your inspection is typically scheduled within your contract's inspection contingency window — often 5 to 10 days. A standard inspection usually takes two to four hours depending on the size and age of the home, so plan accordingly if you intend to attend. A few things worth doing beforehand: Make sure utilities are on. Inspectors need working water, electricity, and gas to test systems like the furnace, water heater, and plumbing fixtures. Clear access points. If the electrical panel, attic hatch, or water heater closet is blocked by furniture or storage, ask the seller to clear a path. Decide if you're attending. You're not required to be there, but most experienced buyers recommend it — more on why below. Step 1: The Exterior Walkthrough Most inspectors start outside, working their way around the perimeter of the home. This is where they assess: Roofing — shingle condition, flashing, gutters, and downspouts (often viewed from a ladder or, on steeper roofs, with binoculars or a drone) Siding and trim — cracks, rot, peeling paint, or signs of water intrusion Foundation — visible cracks, settling, or drainage issues Grading and drainage — whether the ground slopes away from the house (critical for keeping water out of the basement or crawl space) Windows and doors — proper sealing and function Decks, porches, and railings — structural soundness and code-relevant safety issues like railing height and spacing Step 2: The Structural and Systems Check Next, the inspector typically heads underneath and above the home — the parts most buyers never see. Attic: Insulation levels, ventilation, signs of roof leaks, and evidence of pests are all checked here. Crawl space or basement: This is where inspectors look for moisture intrusion, foundation issues, exposed wiring, and the condition of the vapor barrier and insulation. It's also a common spot to find evidence of past water damage or pest activity. Electrical panel: The inspector opens the panel to check for proper labeling, outdated wiring (like aluminum or knob-and-tube), signs of overheating, and whether the panel itself is a type known for reliability issues. HVAC system: Furnaces, heat pumps, and air conditioning units are tested to confirm they turn on, reach appropriate temperatures, and don't show signs of poor maintenance or damage. Water heater: Age, signs of leaking or corrosion, proper venting, and whether it meets current safety standards (like having a temperature-pressure relief valve routed correctly). Plumbing: Inspectors run water at every fixture, check for leaks under sinks, test water pressure, and look at visible supply and drain lines for corrosion or damage. Step 3: The Interior Walkthrough Room by room, the inspector checks: Walls, ceilings, and floors for cracks, water stains, or unevenness Windows and doors for proper operation and sealing Outlets and switches, often tested with a simple plug-in tester for correct wiring and GFCI protection where required Smoke and carbon monoxide detectors Fireplace and chimney, if applicable, for basic safety and function (a deeper flue inspection is a separate, specialized service) Signs of past or active pest activity Step 4: Testing Appliances (If Included) Depending on the scope of your inspection, built-in appliances — the dishwasher, oven, range, garbage disposal, and sometimes the washer and dryer — may be tested for basic function. This isn't a deep dive into every appliance's condition, but it will catch things like a dishwasher that doesn't drain or a range that doesn't heat. Step 5: The Inspector's Summary and Report Many inspectors offer a brief verbal walkthrough of major findings at the end of the visit — this is one of the best reasons to attend in person. You can ask questions in real time, see issues firsthand, and get a sense of severity that's sometimes hard to gauge from a written report alone. Within 24 to 48 hours, you'll typically receive a full written report, often with photos, that categorizes findings by system and sometimes by severity (safety issue, major concern, minor/cosmetic). This report becomes the basis for any repair requests or price negotiations with the seller. Should You Attend Your Inspection? You're not required to, but there are real advantages: Context matters. Seeing a hairline foundation crack in person, with the inspector explaining why it's likely just cosmetic settling, is far more useful than reading "minor crack noted" in a report. You can ask questions on the spot — about maintenance, what a repair might cost, or how urgent an issue really is. It's a crash course in your future home — where the water shutoff is, how the furnace filter comes out, what that mystery switch in the garage actually does. If you can't attend, a thorough written report with photos and a follow-up phone call with your inspector is a solid substitute. What Happens After the Inspection Once you have your report, you and your agent will typically decide whether to: Move forward with the purchase as-is Request specific repairs from the seller Negotiate a price reduction or credit in lieu of repairs In rare cases, walk away from the deal if issues are severe and unresolvable within your contingency period It's worth remembering: no home is perfect, even new construction. The goal of an inspection isn't to find a flawless house — it's to make sure you understand exactly what you're buying, so there are no expensive surprises waiting for you after closing. Have questions about what a home inspection covers, or ready to schedule one? Oregon NW Home Inspections is happy to walk you through the process before, during, and after your inspection.

In this guide, we will look at the most common home inspection issues and share simple ways to fix them.